I have not done much commercial roughing. I would appreciate some tips on roughing in three urinals. Would 1 inch pipe be enough? How do you stub out for the drain? Do you stub out nipples for the water or just copper? What is the normal height for the waste?

1" copper will be fine.
I use a 2" tee for the drain, be sure the hub of the branch will be behind the wall's finished surface . You'll need a male adapter there later.
I just a piece of copper out of the wall and use a sweat adapter on it later.
Do these urinals have to meet ADA?

Make sure you don't vary from the measurments that come with the urninal, you will pay a large penalty when it comes time to hook them up!

"If all else fails, read the directions"

I haven't gotten the urinals yet. Thanks for your help. I don't know if one of them will have to be ADA. I have to check with the inspector. I'm replacing existing urinals. What do you usually do to anchor the urinals?

The urinal bracket!

Sammy.You need to know what you are going to use!!! The plumbing game you are setting up to lose.The exact urinals and the flush valve type.Also you must know, if a child set height would serve the customer right.Handicap only the toilet stall.The urinal use is less! unless code stretched is not going to have any job effect.

Don't get too excited until you learn the code and the specifics of the urinals as so much is changing with commercials, even with a 3 bay. Going back to cover a mistake is costly. ADA is a very important issue and must be met, otherwise, you could be included in a complaint. Urinals today can use as much as 1.0 gpf all the way down to ZERO if waterless urinals are spec'd. With 2 urinals high and one set low, make sure that you have the right pitch and a cleanout for later. Urinals, usually hang and bolt on the bottom and with flushvalve, a little silicone between the china and wall will make the job complete.

But first, get the facts.
Best Wishes

The water lines are 3/4", so a 1" main is usually adequate. You have to leave a 2" female thread inside the wall, far enough back so a 2" galvanized nipple will just reach to the wall's surface. You have to know how the urinal is made before you install the drain opening, because there is a large variation between them, even when the lip is at the same height. I usually put the lip at 15" so that it is usable by everyone, except some little people. The water line height will also vary according to the make and model of the urinal, and it will be measured from the center of the drain fitting.

You are replacing the urinals, but are you changing the drain and water piping? If not, then you need new urinals with the same roughin dimensions as the old ones.

I think that if you put 3 urinals in one rest room, one of them has to be low. Check with the local inspector.

HJ,

I have seen someone use a 2" PVC test tee for a urinal drain, because a 2" tee wye (sanitary tee) had the hub too far out. Is this okay?

you do need properly placed, wood bracing behind the wall for the urinal brackets screws.

technically it is against most codes. they are not directional

- - - - - - -

PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Usually you can use a st. male adapter in the tee to keep it back in the wall far enough to work .

You could also put ALL three low, since most men have good enough aim to hit a low one.

Only if you change the tees after the inspection. Don't ask me why I know.

Not really. The urinal is bolted to the spud and that is doing almost ALL of the supporting. The brackets just keep the top against the wall, and help while you swing the urinal onto the spud.

One trick that I was taught was to off-set the drain "T" and then arm over to the required drain opening rough-in.

When you rough it in this way, it can give you a little flexibility to get it perfect when you make your final connection.



Edited 1 times.

Our inspectors will NOT allow an arm, of ANY length, for a urinal drain. It MUST go into a vertical tee.

i'm with you on that hj. have had way to many with arm that snake just won't make that turn after they get filled with uriatic crystal junk.

If you want to be nice to the guy who will have to clean the drain down the road, put the cleanout above the urinal rather than below it.

Usually only works if you can put it on the other side of the wall, otherwise it has to be above the flush valve, which is starting to get unwieldy. The other side of the wall is also usually the ladies' restroom. Also, here the inspectors want the cleanout plug to be in the "wet" portion of the piping.

Not even a "TY-Combo"? :

Do you have inspectors making-up the rules as they see fit because; they are above the rules?:



Edited 1 times.

A "T/combo", (whatever that is, but I assume you mean a combo rather than a sanitary tee), would not be permitted because it creates an "S" trap.

HJ did you say at the start only on the stack would it work?Now you are defining the s trap.start low and wye off to vent stack.Present a as built before done if experience you lack.

i used to wye off the drain and arm over for the clean out and basically put it next to the urinal

- - - - - - -

PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

I DID NOT say I Y'ed off the stack, but that person said HE Y'ed off the stack for the cleanout, NOT the urinal drain, so there is NO "S" trap situation.